Posted by Damon O'Hanlon
Awhile back, Catherine McCord wrote a piece over at The Huffington Post discussing the public’s attitude toward organic food. Specifically, she mentions a teacher who was "talking to parents about the importance of serving organic food at school". The parents’ response? No way! Their reasoning? They didn’t want their kids to become snobs.
If you haven't read McCord’s piece, it’s interesting and worth a quick read. Basically, McCord reiterates the benefits of organic food and takes issue with the idea that ‘organic is snobby’. While I found myself generally agreeing with McCord, something about her approach left me unsatisfied. Weeks later I finally realized what it was.
McCord begins her 'organic is not snobby' argument by citing income statistics. For instance, one poll found that people highly prefer organic, "regardless of income brackets". Another study showed people who earn $30,000 a year and have kids buy more organic food than richer folk and those without kids.
I understand McCord’s point – that organics aren’t just for wealthy, excessive types. I wonder, though... Is that really the kind of "snobby" most often associated with organics? Maybe my perspective has become skewed from living in Santa Cruz for so long, but it seems to me that the kind of snobbery usually (not necessarily fairly) associated with organics is of another variety. The ‘look at that hipster who has an extra buck for organic avocados because he thinks he knows so much better than the rest of us’ variety.
The hit show Portlandia bases some of its humor on satirizing people with this extreme avant-garde demeanor. I'm not saying that I think this portrayal gives a more accurate impression of the people buying organic—just that McCord seems to be lending too much attention to the wrong stereotype. After all, snobbery isn't really restricted by social status or income, is it? Snobbery is an attitude, an attitude that anybody could possess. There are caviar snobs, and then there are fast food snobs.
In her article, McCord also takes the farm corporations to task. She accuses agribusiness of fighting food transparency, and trying to portray organics as "part of an elitist, liberal agenda". She even infers that, in their greed, these companies may be causing early puberty! (Which, based on the evidence, may well be accurate.)
With all these criticisms of Big Agribusiness, I'm surprised McCord does not mention their spurious co-opting of the term ‘organic’. By now it's well-covered that labeling food as organic is a lucrative business for the the farming industry. While watering down (polluting?) the quality of their so-called organics, Big Food companies have slapped a higher price tag on organics and made them available at most every store I’ve ever seen in California (and on my recent trip to Oregon). If indeed there is a perception that ‘organics are for rich folk’, isn’t it because these companies made organics pervasively available, but always at a premium price? It’s kind of like a first-class versus coach grocery shopping experience. McCord paints a picture of ‘organic against the food industry’, when in fact by now the term “organic” has also been largely borrowed and stolen by the food industry.
Lastly, McCord’s entire article focuses on the health of you and your family — a matter of great importance. So why then was it necessary, at the very end of her article, to sneak in a reference to "the health of our planet"? In my view, this is the greatest of all McCord’s misstep. I mean, for the purpose of making a good argument, was our health (and the health of our children) not strong enough to stand on its own? Making a last-second appeal for the survival of the entire earth positions McCord as something of a savior figure. What’s more, because earthly survival went previously unmentioned and unsubstantiated, she comes off as the type of savior whose advice we’re supposed to follow because, you know, it’s so obviously correct. It doesn’t bear the need for evidence or explanation.
I’m not sure whether McCord did this knowingly or unknowingly – she seems nice, so I like to give her the benefit of the doubt – but I do know that it could easily perpetuate the idea that ‘those organic eaters just think they know so much better than the rest of us.’
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